Chinon 35 EE-II

 

This Chinon 35 EE-II is the first camera that I had not used prior to this project. Sometimes you just have to trust that a camera still has the ability to capture a moment.

I picked it up on eBay because it looked to be in good shape.  It turns out the battery wire was fried from battery leak. It was real tricky getting in there to solder the wire. My first attempt to fix this was not successful. After taking a step back, I revisited the repair and was able to get it fixed the second time around. 

The battery situation took some thinking to figure out. It was originally powered by two of the thicker batteries. I stacked two modern batteries on one side and used a brass nut to bridge the other side of the connection. This seems to work just fine and everything worked okay after I did this.

This is an aperture priority rangefinder fitted with a 38mm/f2.7 lens. You select the aperture and the camera will select the shutter speed. The shutter speed is not represented anywhere on the camera or in the viewfinder. There are over/under lights (green/red/green) directly to the right of the viewfinder that you can see as you depress the shutter release. It's good to know that the max shutter time is around 10 seconds. You will get the under exposure warning any time the camera will require a long shutter speed to get the correct exposure. Don't be afraid to use a tripod to get the shot you're looking for. 

The camera has a shutter release lock that could be handy. Personally, I don't advance the film and cock the shutter until I'm ready to take the picture. That's a habit I've developed since I have so many cameras that tension the shutter when you advance the film.

As pointed out on other sites, there isn't an owner's manual readily available on the internet. 

The exposures were pretty good on most of the pictures but the camera didn't produce consistent results. Although this camera is compact and easy to use, it doesn't hold a candle to the Olympus XA.

I used Kodak Tri-X 400 and Orwo UN54 (100 iso) film this month. Developed using the R5 Monobath Developer. Scanned with an Epson V550.

Next month's camera: Franka Solida III

Canon Demi EE17

The Canon Demi EE17 is an excellent half frame camera that produces 24x18mm pictures. The pictures are composed in the portrait format. Rotate the camera 90 degrees and you're taking pics in landscape format! It's equipped with a 30mm/f1.7 lens. According to the literature it's made up of 6 elements in 4 components.

 

The ISO range for this camera is 25-400. The shutter speeds go from 1/8 to 1/500 plus a Bulb setting. The size of the camera is slightly larger than pocket size. It fits comfortably in the hand and mine came with a Canon wrist strap that screws into the tripod mount on the bottom of the camera.

The flash shoe was dangling when I got this one. It ended up falling off and I haven't bothered to remove the top and reattach it yet. For flash photography, I hand held the flash. The camera's small and light enough that you can do that without much fuss.

The shutter was gummed up so I had to go in and give it the ol' naphtha treatment. That was several months ago. So when I snapped my first couple of shots this month, I noticed that it was way too sluggish and wouldn't make it through the month without another round of naphtha and I also used some graphite on the blades this time. It seems to be hanging in there but I wouldn't be surprised if I have to go into the lens element again in the future.

This camera does a great job in the auto mode. Just don't forget that you still have to do the focusing. The focusing on this camera is zone focus and there are icons in the viewfinder (Portrait/Group/Scenery) to let you know the approximation of that focus.

The CdS light meter is located above the lens barrel. The lens cap will not block out the meter. So I put the camera in an old Kodak zipper case to keep the light out and save the battery.

I decided to shoot some Kodak Gold 200 film just because I've shot a lot of black and white the past few months. I also shot color film with this camera when I first got it. I think I'll load it with some black and white film the next time I use it.

Please note: My developer was exhausted! I knew I was pushing my luck using old chemicals. But hopefully you can still see that the camera is very capable with an excellent lens. And the auto exposure mode seems to get it right a majority of the time.

Film: Expired Kodak Gold 200
Developer: Unicolor C41 Kit (exhausted!)
Scanner: Epson V550

Next month's camera: Chinon  35 EE-II

Ansco Titan 20

September's camera was the Ansco Titan 20. While last month's camera, the Ansco Color Clipper, was just a step above a point-and-shoot, the Titan 20 is the polar opposite. The user is in charge of everything--focus, shutter speed, aperture and the cocking of the shutter. There is NO double exposure protection on this camera. If you're in the habit of not winding to the next frame until you're ready to snap a pic, this camera will be a challenge for you. There are a lot of cameras that cock the shutter when you wind to the next frame. Because of this, I wait until I'm ready to take a picture to wind the camera in order to keep tension off the shutter until necessary. So I had to get used to winding immediately after taking a picture so I wouldn't end up with a double exposure.

 

The Titan takes 120 spool film. There's nothing too tricky about loading this camera and winding on until you get to the number 1 on the film paper backing. I find the viewfinder a bit tiny and not very representative of what will actually end up in your picture. When I first took pictures with this camera, I ended up with way more foreground than I thought I would. There doesn't seem to be any magnification in the viewfinder so it's almost a 1:1 ratio when looking through there. I do wear glasses so I'm sure that doesn't help the situation because I can only get my eye so close to the viewfinder window.

The focus ring has a nice post on it to help turn it to the correct guessed distance. There is no rangefinder so you need to be good at zone focus or distance guessing. There's a handy depth-of-field guide that is color coded on this camera. The colors correspond to the color of the arrows below the lens aperture numbers. 

The shutter speeds range 1/2 a second up to 1/400th of a second plus "B" (Bulb) and "T" (Time). This is the first camera I've owned that had a T option. In this setting, you trip the shutter and the shutter remains open until you trip it again. I haven't tried this mode yet but I'm sure it would be great for night photography. The shutter cocking mechanism is located on the top of the lens and is quick to use with a short throw. 

This camera has a very cool minimalist design when closed. There are only two knobs and two buttons (one to open the camera and the other is the shutter button) on the top. The appearance is very art deco and the machined metal top is very attractive.

The camera is equipped with a 90mm/f4.5 lens. 

I only had to make one minor adjustment when I got this camera. The arm that trips the shutter would not travel far enough a second time when set to the "T" mode. All I had to do was bend the arm ever so slightly and now it works like a charm. All shutter speeds work properly and the camera has no other issues.

I used the LightMeter app on my phone to determine the correct exposure of these pictures. 

Film: Kodak T-Max 100

Developer: R5 Monobath

Scanner: Epson V550

Next month's camera: Canon Demi EE17 half frame camera

1954 Agfa Solinette

This is the first camera I bought when getting back into analog photography. I liked the design, it looked clean, and it came with its original case so I snagged it off of Etsy. It's completely manual (no rangefinder, no light meter, no auto mode) so you have to figure out the correct settings--aperture, shutter speed, and distance from your subject. It's actually not as difficult as it sounds. Although I did underexpose quite a bit early on because I kept thinking "it sure is sunny and bright out here" so I would set the shutter speed to 300 out of fear.

There are other Solinettes on the internet but they are all folding cameras. I'm not 100% sure where this fits into the scheme of Agfa cameras but I believe it to be from the 1950's. (Update 9/19/17--recent research has revealed that this camera is from 1954.) This camera most resembles the Agfa Silette but has a Prontor-SVS shutter instead of a Vario. The Solinette also has a full compliment of shutter speeds (topping out at 300) whereas the Silette is restricted to four--B, 25, 50 and 200.

I had to make a couple of leather straps for the case when the original ones broke. I was carrying it around for awhile after the strap broke but got tired of doing that so I made my own straps. The camera itself doesn't have any strap lugs but the case isn't too cumbersome so it's not a problem to keep it in the case and remove the top when you're ready to shoot.

All pics were shot on Kodak T-Max 100 film. Developed in R5 Monobath. Scanned using an Epson V550 Scanner.

 

 

Next month's camera: Ansco Color Clipper